Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

The name Kgalagadi is derived from the word for Place of Thirst or The land that dried up. This spectacular desert landscape, characterized by vast red dunes and ancient scrublands, is a place where water is the most precious and scarce resource. The South African portion of the park is primarily situated in the southern Kalahari Desert, bordered by the Auob River to the west and the Nossob River to the east.

The hydrology of the park is defined by these two ephemeral lifelines. The Nossob river is a 740 kilometer long river flowing from Namibia and Botswana into South Africa. Its origin is in two rivers, the Swart-Nossob and Wit-Nossob, in the Otjihavera mountain range, east of Windhoek in Namibia. The Swart-Nossob (Black Nossob) and Wit-Nossob (White Nossob) confluence south of Gobabis in east-Namibia. The Nossob then goes south and enters South Africa at Union's End. From there it forms the border between South Africa and Botswana for some 200 kilometers. Just north of Twee Rivieren the Auob river merges into the Nossob, flowing south. About 60 kilometers south, near the village of Molopo, the Nossob confluences with the Molopo river. The Molopo river used to end in the Orange river, near Augrabies falls, but today is blocked by the sand dunes near Noenieput (south east of Koo Pan). While it is said the Nossob may only flow once a century (last time a major flow was recorded in 1989) it remains a vital corridor for wildlife.
To the west, the Auob River (meaning Bitter River) enters the park from Namibia as well; though its waters are less frequent, arriving only once every eleven years on average, it brings essential relief to the arid landscape.

The history of the region is etched into the landscape itself. During World War I, the Union of South Africa was concerned about a possible German invasion out of Namibia (Namibia was a German colony then). In order to prevent this, troops were based at the border and in order to provide the soldiers with water, a series of waterholes were drilled along the Auob river.
After WWI, a Scotsman, Rodger 'Malkop' Jackson divided the region into farms of about 10-12 km2 in size. The farmers were granted to live rent-free as long as they maintained the boreholes. It explains the scottish-sounding names (Munro, Dalkeith, Craig Lockhardt) of some waterholes. However, conditions along both Auob and Nossob river were quite harsh and, next to the Tsamma melon, hunting was an important survival technique with dramatic impact on the game in the region. Only in the upper part of the Nossob river, where the Khoe people lived, the natural balance was maintained.
In 1931 the Kalahari Gemsbok NP was proclaimed and boreholes were abandoned. The first warden, Johannes le Riche, lived near Gemsbokplein in a small house abandoned by a borehole guard. Le Riche's brother and successor brought many old boreholes back to live in order to keep wildlife within the park boundaries and safe for poaching. During the WWII, the shortage of bullets for poachers had a great impact on the amount of animals in the park. After WWII the western side of the park became fenced. The eastern side remained open to support east-west migration of animals.

Today, the park is a sanctuary where the balance of nature is carefully maintained. While the western side remains fenced to protect wildlife, the eastern side is open, supporting the essential east-west migration of animals. From the majestic Camel Thorn trees to the incredible predators of the plains, the Kgalagadi remains a testament to life's ability to persist in one of the most extreme environments on Earth.

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Landscape

Images in this section capture the different faces of the Kgalagadi, from the ancient, dry riverbeds to the vast, undulating sand dunes. The landscape is a striking mix of textures, where the flat plains meet the rising crests of the desert.

See the beautiful trees that define the park, such as the majestic Camel Thorn and the Shepherd's tree, favorite resting place of a lion, often set against the backdrop of enormous dunes and wide, open skies. While the environment can be harsh, the views over the dunes and the clarity of the stars at night make it a truly beautiful landscape to document.

By documenting these different areas, we hope to convey the sheer expansiveness of the park. Whether following the path of the Auob or navigating the deep sands of the Gharagab, each area offers a unique perspective on the resilience of this desert ecosystem.

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Waterholes

In the Kgalagadi, life gathers wherever water is found. We have enjoyed the various waterholes maintained along the Auob and Nossob riverbeds, as well as those located within the dune fields. These points of water provide a vital window into the animal activity that defines this dry landscape.

The names of these waterholes often tell a story of the park's past. Some reflect the history of the early settlers and the people of the region (such as Jan se draai), while others are simply direct observations of the wildlife or landscape found there (such as Gemsbokplein). The pages below showcase these locations and, where known, share a bit of the history behind their names.

For us, these waterholes are more than just observation points; they are places where we can truly sit and be part of the landscape. At spots like Cubitje Quap, Union's End, and Dalkeith, we have spent many hours waiting quietly, watching to see what might appear—or simply observing the stillness of the desert. These locations allow us to feel at ease within the wild, waiting for the landscape to reveal itself to us.

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Kgalagadi Camps and Museum

The South African side of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is anchored by three primary rest camps. At the southern entrance lies Twee Rivieren, which serves as the park headquarters. Moving deeper into the park, Mata Mata sits about 120 km upstream along the Auob river near the Namibian border, while Nossob camp is located roughly 160 km upstream along the Nossob river. While the main camps provide essential infrastructure, our personal favorite is Nossob, for its unique position within the park's landscape.

However, it is the smaller, unfenced wilderness camps that truly capture the spirit of the Kgalagadi for us. These camps, Kielie Krankie, Urikaruus, Grootkolk, Gharagab, Bitterpan and Kalahari Tent Camp offer a level of remoteness and quietness that the larger camps cannot match. In these places, the boundary between the traveler and the wild seems to disappear.

We have a particular fondness for the atmosphere of the wilderness camps Urikaruus, Kielie Krankie, Grootkolk, and Gharagab. Each has its own distinct character, shaped by the surrounding terrain and the remarkable people who look after them.
We have always been struck by the friendliness and professionalism of the wardens, such as Willem and Jacques at Kielie Krankie, Erick and Jacques at Urikaruus, and Kain at Grootkolk. Beyond their dedication to the park, we have many fond memories of simply sharing a beer with them after a long day of exploring. These small, shared moments of connection, along with their presence, ensure that even in these remote, open spaces, there is a profound sense of care and a true connection to the park's mission.

Finally, a visit to the Kgalagadi is incomplete without a stop at the Auchterlonie Museum. Located above the Auchterlonie waterhole on the Auob river, this small exhibit preserves the history of the early 20th-century settlers. It provides a poignant look at the lives of the farmers who once lived in this harsh environment, offering a human perspective to the vast, wild landscape surrounding it.

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Year by Year: a comparison of prominent landmarks over the years

The Kgalagadi is a place of slow, profound change. To document this, we have returned to the same specific landmarks (trees, riverbed sections, and landscapes) over many years. By photographing the same spots at different times, we can observe the long-term impact of the park's extreme and unpredictable climate.

These comparisons allow us to see the visible shifts in the environment: watching a riverbed transition from a sandy, dry track to a lush, green corridor after heavy rains, or observing the slow decay and regrowth of ancient vegetation. These images provide a record of how the landscape persists, or struggles, through the cycle of drought and flood, highlighting the true nature of this hardy, unyielding environment.

Along the Auob River

Auob River View from Houmoed Viewpoint north | south
Gemsbokplein Viewpoint
Camel thorn tree trunks in the Auob river bed near the (new) 14e Boorgat waterhole
Group of trees in the Auob river bed in the 14e Boorgat loop
Single Camel thorn just north of 14e Boorgat
Near Dalkeith waterhole "Leopard"-tree
Camel thorn Camel thorn in the Auob river bed
Craig Lockart waterhole Dead tree tree near Craig Lockhart waterhole

Along the Nossob River

Sociable Weavernest between Samevloeiing and Leeudril
Road between Kij Kij and Melkvlei 1 | 2 | 3
Camel thorn near Cheleka waterhole Tree | Panorama view
Just north of Cubitje Quap Tree trunk | Cheetah tree
Tree between Cubitje Quap and Kwang

The Kgalagadi Duneveld along the Bitterpan trail

between Nossob Camp and Klein Stofpan waterhole
near Klein Stofpan waterhole
between Klein Stofpan and Nababies waterhole 1 | 2
between Bitterpan Camp and Strathmore waterhole 1 | 2 | 3
between Strathmore and Nu Quap waterhole 1 | 2 | 3
southwest of Nu Quap waterhole 1 | 2

The Duneveld along the Gharagab trail in northern Kgalagadi TP

between Union's End and Gharagab waterhole 1 | 2 | 3 | 4
between Gharagab waterhole and Gharagab Camp 1 | 2 | 3
between Gharagab Camp and Dankbaar waterhole 1 - north | 1 - south | 2
between Dankbaar waterhole and the Nossob river bed: View | Camel Thorn tree | East | West

Along the Upper Dune Road

Upper Dune Road between Dikbaardskolk and Eland

Along the Lower Dune Road

Sociable Weavernest at the Lower Dune Road closeup | In the landscape

Along the R360 road near Bokspits

Camel Thorn with Weavernest on the R360 north | south |